Author: Compare Fitness Equipment

  • Recognising and Preventing Common Injuries in Home Strength Training

    Training at home removes some of the risks that come with a busy commercial gym — no queuing for equipment, no rushing a set because someone’s waiting — but it also removes the safety net of staff, spotters and other people nearby. This article covers the injuries most commonly linked to home strength training, the warning signs worth paying attention to, and simple, low-cost changes that reduce risk without needing extra equipment.

    The most common issues, and why they happen

    Lower back strain

    The most frequent complaint linked to home strength training, usually from hinge-pattern movements (deadlifts, kettlebell swings) done with a rounded rather than neutral spine, or from lifting a weight that’s awkward to control rather than genuinely heavy. It’s also common when someone lifts an object with poor form outside a workout — picking up a heavy box, for example — using the same rounded-back pattern that a home routine hasn’t yet trained them out of.

    Shoulder strain

    Often linked to pressing movements (shoulder press, bench press) done with a weight that forces the lower back to arch to help complete the rep, or to poor warm-up before overhead work. Existing shoulder mobility limits — common if you spend a lot of time at a desk — make this more likely if pressing work is added too quickly.

    Knee strain

    Usually linked to squatting or lunging with the knees collapsing inward, or to increasing squat depth or load faster than the surrounding muscles and tendons can adapt to.

    Ankle sprains and slips

    More about the training environment than the exercise itself — loose rugs, cables from equipment left across the floor, or training in socks on a hard floor are common, entirely avoidable causes.

    Warning signs worth acting on

    Some discomfort is a normal part of training and doesn’t mean something is wrong. Delayed onset muscle soreness — the dull, generalised ache that appears 24 to 72 hours after a new or harder-than-usual session — is a normal response to unfamiliar exercise and typically resolves on its own within a few days.

    What’s different, and worth taking seriously, includes:

    • Sharp or sudden pain during a lift, rather than general fatigue or a burning sensation in the muscle.
    • Pain that’s localised to a joint rather than spread across a muscle.
    • Pain that gets worse over the following days rather than gradually easing, as normal muscle soreness does.
    • Swelling, bruising, or a joint that feels unstable or gives way.
    • Pain that changes how you walk or move outside the gym, hours or days after training.

    For a minor sprain or strain, NHS guidance recommends the PRICE approach for the first two to three days: Protection (support the area), Rest (avoid the activity that caused it), Ice (an ice pack for up to 20 minutes every two to three hours), Compression (a bandage), and Elevation (raising the injured area). Once pain allows, gentle movement is generally better than prolonged rest, to avoid the joint or muscle stiffening up (NHS, Sprains and strains).

    This is general first-aid guidance for minor, everyday strains — it isn’t a substitute for medical assessment. See a GP, or use NHS 111, if pain is severe, if a joint won’t bear weight at all, if there’s significant swelling or visible deformity, or if a minor injury isn’t improving within a few days of rest.

    Reducing risk without buying anything new

    Most home-gym injury risk factors are free to fix:

    • Clear the space fully before you start — cables, rugs, low furniture and pets in the training area are a common and avoidable cause of trips.
    • Warm up properly, every session — five to ten minutes of light aerobic movement and mobility work before adding weight, even on days you’re short on time.
    • Progress load gradually — small, regular increases rather than big jumps, and hold or reduce the weight if your technique changes as the load goes up.
    • Film yourself occasionally — a phone propped against a wall on a slow-motion setting is a genuinely useful, free way to check your squat depth, bar path or back position without a coach in the room.
    • Train alone with a plan, not on autopilot — know your working weights and rep targets before you start a set, rather than deciding mid-set to “see how it feels” with a heavier load than planned.
    • Don’t skip rest days — training the same muscle groups hard on consecutive days, before they’ve recovered, is a common contributor to overuse injuries in home routines that don’t have a coach checking programming.

    Where equipment choice affects safety

    Some injury risk is genuinely reduced by the right equipment rather than technique alone. Safety features on a power rack or squat stand — spotter arms and adjustable safety pins set at the right height — mean a failed heavy rep is caught by the rack rather than by your own body; our guide to power racks and multi-gyms covers what to check. Flooring matters too: a stable, grippy, shock-absorbing surface reduces slip risk and joint impact compared with training directly on hard flooring, which our separate guide to floor protection and gym flooring covers in more detail.

    Training alone safely

    Most home training happens without anyone else in the room, which is fine for the large majority of exercises but changes the risk calculation for anything genuinely heavy — particularly barbell work without safety pins set, where a failed rep has nowhere safe to go. If you’re lifting near your limits, either use a rack with correctly set safety arms, choose exercises you can safely bail out of alone (dumbbells can be dropped; a barbell across your shoulders generally can’t), or keep your heaviest attempts to a time when someone else is home.

    Sources: NHS, Sprains and strains (nhs.uk); NHS, How to warm up before exercising (nhs.uk); NHS, Physical activity guidelines for adults aged 19 to 64 (reviewed 22 May 2024). This article provides general safety information, not a medical diagnosis or personal training plan. For a specific injury, or before starting strength training with an existing health condition, seek advice from a GP, physiotherapist or qualified trainer.

  • How to Build a Beginner Strength Training Routine at Home: Sets, Reps and Progression Explained

    Buying equipment solves half the problem of starting strength training at home; the other half is knowing what to actually do with it week to week. This guide sets out a straightforward way to structure a beginner routine — sessions per week, sets and reps, and how to progress — based on current sports-science guidance rather than guesswork.

    How often to train

    You don’t need to train every day, and for a genuine beginner, more isn’t automatically better. The current position from the American College of Sports Medicine’s resistance training guidelines is that consistency matters more than volume or complexity, and that training all major muscle groups at least twice a week is enough to see real progress (ACSM, Resistance Training Prescription for Muscle Function, Hypertrophy, and Physical Performance in Healthy Adults, 2026 position stand). This also lines up with the NHS’s general activity guidelines, which set the same two-day-a-week minimum for muscle-strengthening activity.

    A sensible starting frequency for someone new to structured training is two to three full-body sessions a week, with at least one rest or lighter-activity day between sessions that work the same muscle groups. This gives your body time to recover and adapt, which is when the actual strength gains happen — not during the workout itself.

    What a beginner full-body session should include

    Rather than isolating individual muscles the way an experienced lifter’s split routine might, a beginner full-body session should cover each major movement pattern once:

    • A squat or lunge pattern (legs, glutes) — for example a goblet squat or a bodyweight/dumbbell lunge.
    • A hinge pattern (hamstrings, lower back, glutes) — a Romanian deadlift or kettlebell deadlift.
    • A push pattern (chest, shoulders, triceps) — a shoulder press or a floor/bench press.
    • A pull pattern (back, biceps) — a dumbbell row or a resistance-band pull.
    • Core work — a plank variation or a controlled anti-rotation exercise, rather than only sit-ups.

    Four to six exercises covering these patterns is enough for a full session; more than that tends to add fatigue and time without adding much extra benefit for a beginner.

    Sets, reps and load

    Current ACSM guidance for building general strength recommends around 2–3 sets per exercise, with the specific rep range depending on the training goal: closer to 8–12 repetitions per set is a well-established range for building muscle and general strength in beginners, using a weight that feels genuinely challenging by the last two or three reps of each set without breaking form.

    You don’t need to train to complete failure as a beginner — stopping a set once your form starts to break down, with a couple of reps still “in reserve”, builds strength just as effectively at this stage and carries less injury risk than grinding out a final rep with poor technique.

    A sample first-month structure

    This is illustrative, not prescriptive — the right exercises depend on what equipment you have and any physical limitations — but it shows how the pieces above fit together:

    • Monday: Full-body strength (squat, row, press, hinge, core) — 2–3 sets of 10–12 reps each.
    • Tuesday: Rest or light cardio (a walk, an easy cycle).
    • Wednesday: Full-body strength — same structure, weights adjusted where the previous session felt too easy or too hard.
    • Thursday: Rest or light cardio.
    • Friday: Full-body strength, or swap for a cardio-focused session (treadmill, bike or rower) if you’re also working towards the NHS’s 150-minutes-a-week aerobic target.
    • Weekend: At least one full rest day.

    This pattern comfortably covers both parts of the NHS activity guidelines — strength work on at least two days, and room for aerobic sessions across the week — without requiring daily training.

    How to progress from week to week

    Progression doesn’t mean adding weight every single session — for a genuine beginner, simply getting more consistent and more confident with the movement pattern is progress in the first couple of weeks. Once a weight starts to feel comfortably manageable for all your target reps across a full session, that’s the signal to increase load, and current guidance suggests small increases — often in the region of 2–10% — rather than large jumps, so that technique holds up at the new weight.

    A simple way to track this without an app or spreadsheet: note the weight and reps completed for each exercise after every session, even just on your phone. When you can comfortably do the top of your rep range (for example, all sets at 12 reps) with good form, add a small amount of weight next time and drop back towards the bottom of the range (around 8 reps) at the new load.

    Equipment that supports this structure

    A pair of adjustable dumbbells covers the squat, row, press and hinge patterns above in a small footprint, and lets you make the small load increases described here without buying new fixed-weight pairs every few weeks — see our adjustable dumbbells comparison for the main options. A flat or adjustable bench extends what you can do with the press pattern and adds stability for single-arm rows; our weight bench guide covers what to check for a first purchase. If you’d rather train with kettlebells for the hinge and carry-based core work, our separate kettlebells comparison covers cast, competition and adjustable options.

    When a routine like this isn’t right for you

    This structure assumes a generally healthy adult with no current injury. If you have an existing joint, back or heart condition, are pregnant, or are returning to exercise after a significant break, illness or injury, get individual advice from a GP or a qualified physiotherapist or trainer before following a general routine like this one — the right starting point and exercise selection can differ significantly from person to person in those circumstances.

    Sources: American College of Sports Medicine, Resistance Training Prescription for Muscle Function, Hypertrophy, and Physical Performance in Healthy Adults position stand (announced 17 March 2026, Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise); NHS, Physical activity guidelines for adults aged 19 to 64 (reviewed 22 May 2024, nhs.uk).

  • All-in-One Equipment for a Single-Room Setup

    When a single room has to hold everything, an all-in-one machine looks like the obvious answer: one purchase, one footprint, many exercises. Sometimes it is the right answer. More often the same floor area holds a more capable setup, and the difference only becomes apparent after the machine is installed.

    What counts as all-in-one

    • Multi-station gyms — a weight stack with several fixed stations.
    • Functional trainers — two adjustable cable columns, often with a rack.
    • Smith machine combos — a guided bar plus cable stations.
    • Rack with attachments — not usually marketed as all-in-one, and frequently the best version of the idea.

    Capability per square metre

    This is the measure that matters in a single room, and it produces a clear ranking.

    SetupMovement patternsLoad ceilingFootprint
    Rack, bar, plates, benchAll sixUnlimitedModerate plus loading room
    Rack with lat/low pulleyAll six, plus cable workUnlimitedModerate
    Functional trainerMost, hinge poorlyStack maximumLarge
    Multi-station gymPush and pull, hinge poorlyStack maximumLarge
    Adjustable dumbbells and benchAll sixSet maximumVery small

    The bottom row is worth noticing. A pair of adjustable dumbbells and an adjustable bench covers every movement pattern in a fraction of the floor space of any machine, and is frequently the genuine answer for a single room.

    Where all-in-one machines genuinely win

    1. Fast changeover. Moving a pin is quicker than loading plates, which matters for circuits and higher-volume work.
    2. Safe failure. A stack cannot land on you, which suits training alone.
    3. Low learning requirement. Guided paths are far less intimidating for a beginner.
    4. Household accessibility. Several people can use it with no instruction.
    5. Cable work, which free weights genuinely cannot replicate.

    If those describe your situation — and for plenty of people they do — the machine is the right choice and the space is well spent.

    The three costs people underestimate

    • The hinge pattern is poorly covered. Deadlifts and their variants are what these machines do worst, and it is a valuable pattern.
    • The load ceiling and the increments. A stack has a maximum and its steps are usually coarse. Both bind sooner than expected.
    • Fit. Stations are built around an average body. Much taller or shorter users often cannot get into a good position, and adjustment is limited.

    Serviceability, which decides the machine’s life

    Cables, pulleys and guide rods wear. On many machines, spares are not available, and when a cable fails the machine is finished. Before buying, ask whether replacement cables and pulleys exist for that specific model and what they cost.

    This matters more than for a rack or a bench, which have nothing to wear out, and it is the single most useful question to put to a retailer about an all-in-one machine.

    The middle route worth knowing

    For a single room, a rack with a lat and low pulley attachment is frequently the best of both. It covers every movement pattern with unlimited load, adds the cable work that free weights cannot provide, gives you a safety system, takes less floor area than a multi-station machine, and holds its value.

    It requires more decisions than buying one machine, which is what the all-in-one format is really selling.

    Before you buy any of them

    1. Mark the full footprint on the floor, including where you stand and where the stack travels.
    2. Check ceiling height for the tallest position you will use.
    3. Confirm it dismantles enough to leave the room.
    4. Check adjustment ranges against the tallest and shortest user.
    5. Establish the pulley ratio, since the stack figure is often not what reaches the handle.
    6. Ask about cable and pulley spares.

    The questions to ask before buying an all-in-one

    1. What is the pulley ratio on each station? The stack figure is frequently not what reaches the handle, and manufacturers often do not say.
    2. What are the stack increments? Coarse steps bind sooner than a low maximum.
    3. What are the adjustment ranges on every seat and pad, against your tallest and shortest user?
    4. Are cables and pulleys available as spares for this specific model, and at what cost?
    5. How far does it dismantle, and can it leave the room it is assembled in?
    6. What is the full footprint, including where the stack travels and where you stand?

    A retailer who answers all six is selling a machine someone thought about. Vagueness on spares in particular is worth treating as an answer in itself.

    The hinge gap, and how to fill it

    Whatever else an all-in-one covers, the hinge pattern — deadlifts and their variants — is the one it handles worst, and it is among the most valuable patterns there is.

    If you buy a machine, plan to cover the hinge separately: a pair of heavy dumbbells or kettlebells for Romanian deadlifts and hip hinges, or a trap bar if you have the space. It is a small additional purchase and it turns an incomplete setup into a complete one.

    Capability per square metre is the real measure

    All-in-one machines buy fast changeover, safe failure and a low learning requirement, and they pay for it in floor space, load ceiling, the hinge pattern and depreciation. If those trade-offs match your situation, the machine is a reasonable purchase. If they do not, a rack with a lat and low pulley attachment covers more patterns in less space, keeps the load ceiling open and holds its value — at the cost of more decisions, which is what the all-in-one format is really selling.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Leg Press Against Squat Rack for Lower-Body Training

    These get compared because both are the answer to “how do I train legs heavily at home”. They are not otherwise similar: one is a guided machine with a fixed path, the other is a frame that lets you load a barbell safely. The right answer depends far more on your circumstances than on which trains legs better.

    Side by side

    Squat rack with bar and platesLeg press
    Patterns coveredSquat, press, pull, hinge, and moreLeg press only
    Load ceilingAdd platesVery high — often the higher of the two
    Balance and techniqueRequiredMinimal
    Failing aloneNeeds safeties, correctly setInherently safe
    FootprintModerate, plus loading roomLarge and permanent
    Ceiling heightRequired for squats and pressingAlmost none
    CostModerateHigher for comparable quality
    ResaleGood — steel holds valuePoor; hard to move and sell
    Trains the trunkSubstantiallyVery little

    The versatility gap

    This is the strongest argument and it is decisive for most home buyers. A rack with a bar and plates trains the whole body: squats, overhead press, bench press with a bench, rows, rack pulls, and pull-ups if it has a bar. A leg press trains one movement.

    For a home gym, where floor space is the binding constraint, capability per square metre is the right measure — and by that measure a rack wins by a very large margin.

    Where a leg press is genuinely the better choice

    • Low ceilings. A leg press needs almost no headroom. If you cannot stand and squat with a bar on your back, this is a real constraint rather than a preference.
    • Training alone at very heavy loads, where failing under a bar is the concern and a machine removes it entirely.
    • Working around an upper-body limitation. A shoulder or wrist problem that prevents holding a bar does not prevent leg pressing.
    • Balance or coordination limitations, where a supported position makes heavy training possible when a free squat does not.
    • Rehabilitation contexts, where a controlled path is the point — and which should follow clinical advice.
    • Someone who genuinely will not squat. A leg press that gets used beats a rack that does not.

    What a leg press does not train

    Worth being specific, because it is often glossed over. The leg press supports your torso, which means the trunk does very little. It also fixes your foot position and path, so the stabilising work around the hip and ankle is largely absent. And it is not weight-bearing through the spine, which is part of what makes squatting valuable beyond the legs themselves.

    None of that makes it a bad exercise. It makes it a leg exercise rather than a whole-body one, and that distinction should inform what else is in your gym.

    The practical realities of a leg press at home

    1. They are very large. Measure carefully, including the sled travel.
    2. They are very heavy, and assembled in place. Getting one into a room, and out again, is a genuine project.
    3. Floor loading is concentrated. On a suspended floor this is worth thinking about.
    4. Plate storage is essential and usually included on plate-loaded models.
    5. Resale is poor. Large, heavy, hard to move, and a small buyer pool.

    The alternatives worth considering first

    If the appeal of a leg press is heavy leg training without balance demands, two cheaper and smaller options do much of the same job:

    • Single-leg work with dumbbells. Split squats and step-ups load one leg at a time, so moderate weights produce a heavy effect. No rack, no ceiling height, no machine.
    • A hack squat or belt squat attachment for a rack, which loads the legs without the bar on your back.
    • Trap bar deadlifts, which are more forgiving than a straight bar and easier to learn.

    The verdict

    For most home gyms, a rack with a bar and plates is the better purchase, and it is not close. It covers every movement pattern, keeps the load ceiling open, retains its value and takes less space. A leg press is the right answer when a specific constraint makes squatting impractical — low ceiling, a limitation that prevents holding a bar, or a genuine need to remove failure risk — and in those cases it is a good answer rather than a compromise.

    Plate-loaded against selectorised leg presses

    If a leg press is the right answer for your situation, the next decision is how it is loaded.

    Plate-loadedSelectorised (weight stack)
    CostLower, especially if you own platesHigher
    Changing weightLoad and unload platesMove a pin
    IncrementsAs fine as your smallest platesFixed, often coarse
    Load ceilingVery highThe stack maximum
    SpaceNeeds plate storage nearbySelf-contained
    MaintenanceMinimal — rails and rollersCables and pulleys to wear

    For home use, plate-loaded is usually the better answer if you already own plates: cheaper, finer increments, a higher ceiling and less to go wrong. The trade is the time spent loading, which on a leg press is more than on a barbell because the loads are heavier.

    Sled travel, and measuring properly

    The specification people forget. A leg press occupies its stated footprint at rest and more when the sled is at full extension. Measure the travel as well as the frame, and allow room to get on and off at both ends. In a garage, check the travel does not put the sled into the door opening.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Bumper Plates Against Iron Plates for Home Floors

    Both types are just weight. Neither is better made than the other in any general sense, and a kilogram is a kilogram. What separates them is what happens when the bar comes down, and that single question resolves the decision for most home buyers.

    The two types

    Iron (cast or rubber-coated)Bumper (rubber or urethane)
    DiameterVaries with weightConstant across weights, by design
    Thickness for a given weightThinThick
    Can be droppedNoYes, that is the purpose
    Noise on contactLoud, sharpDuller, still substantial
    Cost per kilogramLowerHigher
    Space for a full setLessMore
    Sleeve space usedLessMore — can run out before you do
    Floor damage riskHigh if droppedLow

    The constant diameter point

    Bumper plates of the same standard share one diameter regardless of weight. That means the bar always starts at the same height from the floor, whether loaded with the lightest bumpers or the heaviest.

    This matters more than it sounds. With iron plates, lighter loads sit the bar lower, so a beginner deadlifting light weight is pulling from a deeper position than someone lifting heavy — which is backwards, since the deeper position is the harder one. Bumpers remove that entirely, and it is one of the strongest arguments for them for a newer lifter.

    Do you actually need to drop the bar?

    This is the question, and the honest answer for many home lifters is no.

    • You need bumpers if you do Olympic lifts, if you deadlift near your limit and cannot control the bar down, or if you train to genuine failure on lifts where dumping the bar is the exit.
    • You do not need bumpers if you lower the bar under control every rep, which is what most general strength training involves.
    • The middle case is a set of light bumpers to set bar height plus iron for the rest — cheaper and more compact than full bumpers, with the correct start height.

    Be honest rather than aspirational here. Buying a full bumper set for Olympic lifting you do not do costs more money and considerably more space than the equivalent iron.

    Floors, which usually decide it

    FloorIronBumpers
    Ground-floor concrete slabFine with proper mattingFine; still use matting
    Suspended timber, ground floorControl the bar down; use mattingBetter, but dropping is still a lot of energy into the structure
    UpstairsDo not drop anythingDo not drop anything
    Flat with neighbours belowDropping is not viableDropping is still not viable

    Worth being clear: bumpers protect the plates, the bar and the floor surface. They do not make dropping weights acceptable upstairs or in a flat. The impact energy still goes into the structure, and it is what neighbours hear.

    Space, which is the underrated cost

    Bumpers are thick. A full bumper set takes considerably more room than the same weight in iron, both in storage and on the bar. That second point catches people out: with thick plates you can run out of sleeve length before you run out of strength, particularly on lighter bumper sets where the plates are proportionally thickest.

    If space is genuinely tight and you control the bar down, iron is the more sensible choice by a clear margin.

    Material and construction notes

    • Cast iron is the cheapest and most compact. Bare iron will surface-rust in a damp garage, which is cosmetic.
    • Rubber-coated iron is quieter and kinder to floors, slightly bulkier, and the coating can split or smell in a warm room.
    • Rubber bumpers are the standard. The metal insert bonded into the rubber is the usual failure point, so a well-bonded or stainless insert is worth paying for.
    • Urethane is harder-wearing and less prone to odour, at a higher price. Common commercially for durability rather than performance.
    • Competition bumpers are calibrated to a tighter weight tolerance and are thinner for their weight. Expensive, and unnecessary outside competition.

    A sensible buying order

    1. Decide whether the bar will genuinely be dropped. That answer chooses the type.
    2. If yes: a pair of the largest bumpers, plus iron or smaller bumpers to build up.
    3. If no: iron throughout, plus a pair of light bumpers only if you want the bar at standard height for pulling.
    4. Buy small increments generously. Progression is limited by the smallest jump available.
    5. Specify storage at the same time. Plates left on the floor damage it and get stepped on.
    6. Put down proper flooring before the plates arrive, not after the first mark.

    Flooring, which you need either way

    Neither plate type removes the need for proper flooring, and the flooring specification differs depending on which you choose.

    SetupFlooring that suits it
    Iron, controlled loweringRubber matting of moderate thickness across the lifting area, protecting the surface from plate edges and dropped collars
    Bumpers, occasional dropsThicker rubber, ideally a dedicated lifting area or platform, to spread impact
    Either, on a suspended floorThickness plus load spreading; position near load-bearing walls or across joists

    A platform — a simple layered plywood and rubber base — is worth knowing about if you will pull from the floor regularly. It spreads impact across a wider area than mats alone and it gives you a defined, level lifting surface, which matters on an uneven garage slab.

    Buying plates used

    Plates are the safest used purchase in home strength equipment. They have no mechanism, they do not wear out, and surface rust on cast iron is cosmetic and removable. Check the bore is true and undamaged, put a couple on a scale if you can, and inspect bumpers where the insert meets the rubber — a lifting or cracked insert is the one fault that matters.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Disposing of or Reselling Old Fitness Equipment

    Equipment leaves a house eventually — sold, given away, or taken to a tip. What it is worth, and how difficult it is to move on, varies enormously by category, and knowing that in advance affects when you should act.

    What holds value and what does not

    CategoryResaleWhy
    Weight platesExcellentSteady demand; nothing wears out; simple to assess
    BarbellsVery goodSame, and easy to transport
    RacksVery goodSteel holds value; strong demand
    Kettlebells and fixed dumbbellsVery goodIndestructible
    BenchesGoodCheck the pad
    Rowers and bikesModerateBuyers discount for mechanism risk
    TreadmillsPoorHeavy, awkward, and motor condition is hard to assess
    Cross trainersPoorLarge, hard to move, limited buyer pool
    Multi-gymsVery poorEnormous, must be dismantled, small market
    Connected equipmentDependsAccount transfer and model support decide it

    The pattern is consistent: the simpler and denser the item, the better it sells.

    Timing, which matters more than people think

    Fitness equipment has a pronounced seasonal market. Demand rises sharply from late December through January and again in September, and falls away in summer.

    It also depreciates faster in the first two years than afterwards. If equipment is not being used and is unlikely to be, selling at eighteen months in early January recovers considerably more than selling at four years in July. Recognising a mismatch early and acting on it is not a failure — it is the sensible response to information the purchase bought you.

    Preparing equipment to sell

    1. Clean it thoroughly. The single highest-return hour you will spend.
    2. Deal with surface rust on bars and plates — a brush and a light oil transforms how a bar photographs.
    3. Replace obvious consumables if they are cheap. A new friction pad or a lubricated deck presents far better.
    4. Gather the manual, tools and any spare parts, which meaningfully increases confidence.
    5. Photograph honestly and in good light, including any damage. Surprises on collection day are what kill sales.
    6. State the model number so buyers can research it.

    Writing a listing that works

    • Model number and age, stated plainly.
    • Dimensions and weight, which the buyer needs to plan collection.
    • Whether it dismantles, and how far.
    • Access at your end — upstairs, through a garage, ground floor.
    • Any faults, described accurately.
    • Maintenance history, if you have kept one. This genuinely increases both confidence and price.
    • Collection only, for anything heavy, and be clear that they bring help.

    Safety and practicalities of a private sale

    Selling large equipment means strangers coming to your house and moving heavy objects. Sensible precautions: have someone else present, do not let a buyer attempt something unsafe on your stairs, and be clear in advance that they are responsible for lifting and transport.

    If the item has been subject to a safety recall, say so and state whether the remedy was carried out. That is straightforward good practice and it protects you as well as the buyer.

    If it will not sell

    1. Offer it free for collection. Heavy equipment frequently moves instantly at nothing when it would not move at all at a price.
    2. Local community groups and schools sometimes take equipment, particularly simple strength items.
    3. Scrap metal is a genuine option for plates, bars and racks, and carries a small value rather than a disposal cost.
    4. Household waste recycling centres take most equipment; check what they accept and whether large items need booking.
    5. Some retailers offer take-back when delivering a replacement, which is worth asking about.

    For powered equipment, electrical items have their own disposal rules and should not go into general waste. Recycling centres handle this routinely.

    The buying lesson

    Read this table backwards before your next purchase. The equipment that is hardest to sell is the equipment that is largest, heaviest, most complex and most specific — and those are exactly the characteristics that also make it hard to move between rooms, hard to take to a new house, and hard to live with if circumstances change. Resale difficulty is a reasonable proxy for how much a purchase commits you.

    Getting the price right

    Two mistakes are common and they pull in opposite directions. Sellers anchor to what they paid, which ignores depreciation; or they price for a quick sale on something that would have held its value.

    • Look at what similar items have actually sold for, not at what they are listed for. Listings sit unsold; completed sales are the real market.
    • Price plates, bars and racks confidently. Demand is steady and they do not wear out.
    • Price large cardio machines to move. The buyer is taking on transport, assembly and mechanism risk.
    • Factor in your own cost of keeping it. An unused machine occupying a room has a cost, even if it is not a financial one.

    Before it leaves the house

    1. Remove your account and data from any connected equipment, and confirm what transfers.
    2. Gather the manual, tools and spare parts.
    3. Note anything the buyer needs to know about assembly or quirks.
    4. Disclose any recall history and whether the remedy was completed.
    5. Photograph it as it leaves, which settles any later dispute about condition.

    Sell early, in January, and clean it first

    Plates, bars, racks and kettlebells sell quickly and hold their value. Treadmills, cross trainers and multi-gyms are hard to move and worth little. Sell in January or September rather than summer, sell at eighteen months rather than four years, and clean it properly first — that hour is the highest-return work in the whole process.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Firmware Support and Product Lifespan

    A well-made rack will outlive its owner. A well-made treadmill will run for many years with maintenance. The console on that treadmill, and the software behind it, operate on a completely different timescale — and on connected equipment that mismatch is what usually determines the machine’s working life.

    The mismatch

    ComponentRealistic lifeWhat ends it
    Steel frameDecadesEssentially nothing
    MotorMany years with maintenanceHeat, usually from friction
    Belt, deck, cablesConsumableWear — replaceable if spares exist
    Console hardwareYearsFailure, and availability of a replacement
    Software platformUnpredictableCompany decisions entirely outside your control

    The bottom two rows are where connected equipment differs from everything else in a home gym.

    What firmware support actually means

    • Bug fixes and stability, which matter most in the first year.
    • Compatibility maintenance as phone operating systems and app standards change. This is the one that quietly breaks older machines.
    • Security updates, relevant for anything on your home network.
    • New features, which are pleasant and are not the reason support matters.

    The second is the significant one. A machine that works perfectly today can stop connecting to your phone after an operating system update, and whether that is fixed depends on whether anyone is still maintaining the firmware.

    Questions worth asking before buying

    1. How long has this model been on sale? A model near the end of its production run is closer to the end of its support.
    2. Is there a stated support period? Rare, and a very good sign where it exists.
    3. How are updates delivered? Over the air, via an app, or a service visit.
    4. What happened to the previous generation? The most informative question available — look at whether older models still work with the current app.
    5. Can the console be replaced? And is a replacement available separately?
    6. Does the machine work without the console? On some designs, a dead console means a dead machine.

    Open standards as insurance, again

    A machine supporting FTMS is substantially protected against this whole category of problem, because third-party software can drive it regardless of what the manufacturer does or does not maintain.

    This is the practical reason to treat open standard support as a first-tier specification on connected equipment rather than a technical footnote. It is the difference between a machine whose life is determined by its mechanical parts and one whose life is determined by a company’s product roadmap.

    Updating sensibly

    • Do not update mid-session, for obvious reasons.
    • Read what an update changes where release notes exist. Updates occasionally remove features or change connectivity behaviour.
    • Do not skip security updates on anything connected to your home network.
    • If an update breaks something, report it — and check whether rolling back is possible before assuming it is not.
    • Keep a note of the firmware version that worked, which makes support conversations far easier.

    When a console fails

    This is the common practical failure and it has a limited set of outcomes: a replacement console is available and fitted; the machine still functions in a basic mode without it; or the machine is finished.

    Which of those applies is determined at purchase, not at failure, and it is a question a retailer can answer. On an otherwise sound machine, an unobtainable console is a very expensive way to lose a piece of equipment that has nothing mechanically wrong with it.

    Steel outlasts software

    On mechanical equipment, buy on build quality and spares availability. On connected equipment, add two further questions: does it support an open standard, and can the console be replaced or bypassed? Those two answers determine whether you have bought a machine that will last as long as its steel, or one that will last as long as somebody else’s commercial interest in supporting it.

    The generational test

    The most informative thing you can do before buying connected equipment costs nothing: look at how the manufacturer has treated the previous generation.

    1. Does the current app still support the previous model? If not, and it is only a few years old, that tells you what to expect.
    2. Are spare consoles available for older models?
    3. Have older models been moved to a reduced feature set?
    4. What do owners of the previous generation say about connectivity after operating system updates?
    5. Has the company discontinued a platform before, and how was it handled?

    A manufacturer with a good record here is worth paying for. One with a poor record is selling you the same outcome again.

    Extending the life of what you have

    • Keep the machine working mechanically. The frame and drivetrain will outlast everything else if maintained.
    • Note the firmware version that worked, so a support conversation starts from facts.
    • Add an external sensor if the console degrades — a heart rate strap and an app can replace much of what a failing console did.
    • Do not update reflexively on an older machine that currently works, unless the update is a security one.
    • Buy the replaceable console while it is available, if the machine is otherwise excellent and you intend to keep it.

    Steel outlasts software

    The mechanical parts of good equipment last far longer than the software attached to them, and on connected machines that gap is what ends the product. Two questions cover most of the risk: does it support an open standard, and can the console be replaced or bypassed? Add the generational test — look at how the previous model has been treated — and you have a reasonable picture of what you are actually buying a decade of.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Direct-to-Consumer Brands Against Established Manufacturers

    The fitness equipment market has changed considerably. Alongside long-established manufacturers sit newer direct-to-consumer brands selling online, frequently offering more specification for the money. Both models have genuine advantages, and the differences that matter show up years after purchase rather than at the point of sale.

    What each model tends to offer

    Direct-to-consumerEstablished manufacturer
    Specification per poundOften betterOften lower
    DistributionOnline, directRetailers and dealers
    Service networkUsually limited or noneUsually established
    Spare partsVaries enormouslyGenerally available longer
    Track recordShort by definitionLong, and checkable
    Trying before buyingRarely possibleSometimes possible
    Warranty administrationDirect with the brandOften through the retailer

    Why the specification gap exists

    It is not usually a trick. Selling direct removes a distribution layer and its margin, and newer brands often compete precisely on specification because it is the most legible way to make a case against an established name. The saving is real.

    What the model tends not to fund is the unglamorous infrastructure: an engineer network, a spares operation, and a commitment to supporting a product for a decade. That is where the difference shows up, and it shows up late.

    The questions that matter

    1. How long have they been trading, and under this name? Brands in this space appear and disappear.
    2. Are spare parts sold separately, and for how long after a model is discontinued? This is the single most useful question and the answers vary enormously.
    3. Who carries out warranty repairs? An engineer network, a courier-based exchange, or self-fit parts.
    4. Is there a phone number? A support model that is email-only is workable for a query and frustrating for a broken machine.
    5. Where is the equipment actually made? Many brands across both models use the same contract manufacturers, which is worth knowing before paying a premium for either.
    6. What is the returns process for a large item, including who pays collection?

    Reading reviews usefully

    Reviews for newer brands skew heavily toward the first weeks of ownership, because that is when the products have existed. That tells you about delivery, assembly and first impressions and almost nothing about durability.

    • Filter for reviews over a year old where the platform allows it.
    • Search for the model plus a fault term — the specific complaints are more informative than the star rating.
    • Look for how the company responds to problems, which is more predictive than how many problems there are.
    • Be sceptical of a very high average on a very new product. It mostly measures unboxing.

    Where each model suits

    • Direct-to-consumer suits simple equipment where there is little to fail and spares matter less — racks, benches, plates, bars, simple magnetic bikes. Here the specification advantage is close to free.
    • Established manufacturers suit complex powered equipment you intend to keep for a decade — treadmills in particular, where a motor, controller board and console all have to be supportable years later.

    That split maps closely onto the wider principle on this site: the more mechanism an item has, the more the support arrangements matter, and the less it has, the more you should simply buy the better specification.

    A note on paying by card

    For a large purchase from a brand without a long track record, paying at least part of the cost by credit card can provide additional protection if the retailer ceases trading before delivering. The details and thresholds are worth checking against current rules, and it costs nothing to structure the payment that way.

    Warning signs worth taking seriously

    Most newer brands are straightforward businesses selling decent equipment. A few are not, and the signals are fairly consistent:

    • No spare parts listed anywhere, and no answer when you ask.
    • No physical address or phone number, only a contact form.
    • Specifications that are vague where they should be precise — “powerful motor” rather than a continuous rating.
    • A very large discount permanently displayed against a reference price the item has never sold at.
    • Reviews that are overwhelmingly recent and overwhelmingly positive, with no history.
    • Warranty terms that are hard to find or stated only as a headline number.

    What to do with the saving

    If a direct-to-consumer brand genuinely offers better specification for less, one sensible use of the difference is to buy the spare parts most likely to be needed while they are definitely available — a spare belt, a set of friction pads, a replacement cable. This is unusual advice and it is well suited to a market where a brand may not be selling that model, or trading at all, in five years.

    The other sensible use is simply to keep it. A cheaper machine that does the job leaves budget for the things that decide whether equipment gets used — flooring, heating in the room, a fan, decent lighting — and those do more for the outcome than a specification tier.

    The contract manufacturer point

    Worth understanding because it changes how you read brand claims. A large share of fitness equipment across both established and newer brands comes from the same contract manufacturers, with different badging, finishes and console software.

    That means two machines at very different prices can share a frame, a motor and a deck. It also means the meaningful differences between them are often the ones this site keeps returning to — warranty terms, spare parts availability, and who answers the phone — rather than the underlying hardware. Where you can identify that two machines are the same unit, buy the cheaper one and spend the difference on support or on the room.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Cardio Machine Choice for Joint-Friendly Training

    “Low impact” is one of the most-used phrases in fitness equipment marketing and one of the least precise. It gets applied to machines that load joints very differently, and the distinctions matter if you are choosing equipment because something hurts.

    Three terms that are not the same

    TermMeansExample
    Low impactNo hard landing; nothing strikes the groundCross trainer, rower, bike
    Non-weight-bearingYour skeleton is not supporting your body weightCycling, rowing
    Joint-friendlyLoads a specific joint through a comfortable rangeDepends entirely on which joint

    The confusion matters. Cycling is low impact and non-weight-bearing, which makes it excellent for a sore ankle and less relevant if the goal is bone loading. A cross trainer is low impact but weight-bearing, which is often exactly the right combination. And a rower is low impact but asks a lot of a sensitive lower back, so it is not automatically joint-friendly at all.

    Matching the machine to the joint

    If the problem is…Generally suitsGenerally avoid or approach carefully
    KneesRecumbent or upright bike, cross trainer, swimmingRunning, high-resistance climbing, deep-flexion machines
    HipsBike with careful seat height, cross trainerAnything demanding a large hip range; check stride length on a cross trainer
    Ankles or feetBike, rower, arm ergometerTreadmill, climbing machines
    Lower backRecumbent bike, cross trainerRowing until technique is sound; high damper settings
    ShouldersBike, treadmillSki erg, air bike arms, vertical climber
    General arthritis or stiffnessRecumbent bike for access and support; gentle upright cyclingAnything with a high step-over or requiring balance

    This is a starting point for choosing equipment, not clinical advice. If a joint hurts, the order of operations is to get it assessed and then choose equipment that fits the advice — not to select a machine and hope.

    Setup matters as much as machine choice

    A well-chosen machine set up badly will still cause discomfort, and this accounts for a great deal of “cycling hurts my knees”.

    1. Saddle height is the biggest single variable on any bike. Too low loads the front of the knee, which is the most common complaint and the easiest fix.
    2. Stride length on a cross trainer should suit your height. Over-striding stresses hips and knees at the extremes.
    3. Rowing technique — legs, then body, then arms — determines whether the lower back is protected or loaded.
    4. Resistance progression. Increasing resistance faster than the joint adapts is a common cause of flare-ups on machines that are otherwise appropriate.
    5. Range of motion. Shortening the range is a legitimate adaptation on many machines and is better than avoiding the machine entirely.

    Where weight-bearing matters

    One important nuance. Non-weight-bearing exercise is kind to painful joints and does not load the skeleton, and skeletal loading has its own value. If bone health is a consideration for you, a training plan built entirely around cycling and rowing addresses one goal and not the other.

    The usual practical answer is a combination: a non-weight-bearing machine for the bulk of cardiovascular work, plus weight-bearing activity that the joint tolerates — walking, incline walking, or resistance training. This is a question worth raising with a clinician if it applies to you, because the right balance is individual.

    The specifications to prioritise

    1. Adjustment range, so the machine can be set to you rather than the reverse.
    2. Low-end resistance. The lowest setting needs to be genuinely easy. A machine whose easiest level is a moderate effort is unusable for a first session after a long gap.
    3. Access — step-through height, seat height relative to a chair, handles to push up from.
    4. Fine resistance increments, so progression can be gradual rather than in jumps.
    5. Stability, which matters more where balance is a concern.
    6. Comfort over duration, since these are usually longer, gentler sessions.

    The machine that gets used

    The last point is the one that decides outcomes. For joint-related training the barrier is rarely intensity — it is comfort, access and confidence. A machine that is easy to get on, comfortable to stay on, and gentle enough at its lowest setting to start from almost nothing will produce far more training than a theoretically superior machine that is awkward or intimidating. That is why recumbent bikes, which are frequently dismissed, are so often the right answer.

    Building up without provoking a flare

    Choosing the right machine is half of it. The other half is how you introduce it, and this is where well-chosen equipment most often goes wrong.

    1. Start shorter than feels necessary. Ten easy minutes that leave you fine the next day beats thirty that do not.
    2. Change one variable at a time. Duration or resistance, not both.
    3. Judge by the following day, not the session. Joint responses are often delayed, which is exactly why people overdo the first week.
    4. Expect some initial stiffness from unaccustomed movement, and treat sharp or one-sided pain differently — that is a reason to stop and ask, not to push through.
    5. Keep the easy sessions genuinely easy. Consistency does more for joint tolerance than intensity does.

    Equipment that helps beyond the machine

    • A mat, if any part of the session happens on the floor.
    • Adjustable pedal straps, where foot position or control is a concern.
    • A heart rate strap, which lets you keep easy sessions honestly easy rather than drifting harder than intended.
    • Good lighting and a warm room. Cold stiff joints and a cold garage are a poor combination, and heating the space is often a better investment than upgrading the machine.

    When to stop and ask

    Equipment choice can accommodate a lot, and it cannot diagnose anything. Stop and seek advice rather than adjusting the machine if pain is sharp rather than dull, if it affects one side only, if it wakes you at night, if a joint swells or gives way, or if discomfort is getting worse session on session despite a sensible progression. None of those are equipment problems, and no machine specification solves them.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

  • Air Bikes: What the Category Is Built For

    Air bikes — fan bikes, assault bikes, whatever a given retailer calls them — are sold in the same section as upright and recumbent bikes and are a fundamentally different tool. Bought for what they do, they are outstanding. Bought as a general exercise bike, they are usually returned.

    How the resistance works, and why it matters

    The fan is both the flywheel and the resistance. Pushing it through air generates resistance that rises with speed, so the harder you work the harder it pushes back. There is no resistance level to set and no way to make it easy at high output.

    The practical consequences follow directly:

    • You cannot coast. Effort and resistance are the same thing.
    • It is self-limiting in the right way. Anyone can use it at their own level, because the machine responds to whatever they put in.
    • Intervals are seamless. No lag waiting for resistance to change, no console to operate.
    • Steady-state riding is dull. Without resistance levels there is little to structure a long session around.

    The moving arms

    Most air bikes have handles linked to the drive, so arms and legs work together. This is what makes them full-body machines rather than leg machines, and it is a significant part of why the work rate is so high. It also means they need side clearance beyond the frame, and it makes them unsuitable for anyone who cannot use both arms comfortably.

    Most models let you use legs only by resting the arms on the fixed pegs, which is useful for recovery intervals and for anyone with a shoulder problem.

    Noise: the factor that decides most purchases

    This needs stating bluntly because it is the most common regret in the category. An air bike is the loudest piece of cardio equipment in ordinary domestic use, by a clear margin. It is a broadband rushing sound that rises with effort, it carries through a house, and it makes conversation or television difficult in the same room.

    In a flat, in a room adjoining a bedroom, or anywhere you would want to train while others are asleep or working, this alone rules the category out regardless of every other merit. In a garage or detached space it is a non-issue.

    If you can, hear one running before you buy. Product pages do not convey it.

    Who they suit

    • Interval and conditioning training, which is what the design is for.
    • Mixed-ability households, because the machine adapts to whoever is on it without any adjustment.
    • People who want full-body work from a cardio machine.
    • Garage and outbuilding gyms, where noise does not matter and the machine tolerates temperature swings well.
    • Anyone wanting minimal maintenance. There is very little to wear out — no resistance mechanism, no pads, no motor.

    Who should buy something else

    • Anyone in a flat or with sleeping children. The noise is decisive.
    • Anyone wanting long steady sessions. Use an upright or recumbent bike.
    • Anyone wanting to read or watch while training. Not realistic on this machine.
    • Anyone with shoulder problems, unless they will use legs only.
    • Anyone needing easy access — the step-over and upright position are not designed around it.

    What to compare between models

    1. Frame stability under hard effort. These machines take genuine abuse; a light frame walks across the floor.
    2. Drive system. Belt drive is quieter and lower-maintenance than chain.
    3. Fan size and housing. Affects both the resistance curve and the noise character.
    4. Seat adjustment range, including fore-and-aft if possible.
    5. Console. Calories and intervals are the common metrics; some report power in watts, which is more useful.
    6. Footprint including arm sweep, not just the frame dimensions.
    7. Bearing quality, which is the main long-term wear point.

    Maintenance, which is refreshingly short

    Keep the fan housing clear of dust, since build-up changes the feel and the noise. Check the chain or belt tension periodically. Check the seat post and handle fixings, which loosen under hard use. That is close to the whole list — the absence of a motor, a resistance mechanism and consumables is one of the category’s real advantages, and it is why these machines are common in commercial settings where durability matters more than quiet.

    Why the effort curve feels so different

    Air resistance rises steeply with speed — disproportionately so. In practical terms, a modest increase in how fast you turn the fan produces a large increase in how hard it is to keep turning it.

    That single property explains most of what people notice about these machines:

    • The last ten seconds of an interval are brutal in a way a set resistance level never is.
    • Small differences in effort show up immediately in the readout, which makes them good for measured interval work.
    • Very high sustained outputs are almost impossible, which is a safety feature as much as a limit.
    • Beginners and experienced athletes can use the same machine at the same time with no adjustment whatsoever.

    It is also why steady-state riding is unrewarding: without resistance levels, the only variable is your own effort, and holding a fixed moderate effort for forty minutes on an air bike is considerably duller than doing the same on a magnetic bike with a route or a class.

    Placement, which matters more than for other machines

    1. Allow clearance for the arm sweep on both sides, well beyond the frame footprint.
    2. Do not put it against a wall. The fan needs air, and a machine tight against a wall both performs differently and pushes noise back into the room.
    3. Expect it to move dust. A fan bike in a dusty garage redistributes that dust every session.
    4. Put it on a mat. These machines get worked hard and can creep across a floor.
    5. Think about where the noise goes. A garage with a shared wall to a neighbour is not the same as a detached one.

    A note on the arms and shoulders

    The linked arm handles are what make the machine full-body, and they also mean the shoulders work hard through a large range under load. For most people this is simply good training. If you have a shoulder problem, an impingement history, or recent upper-body surgery, the pushing and pulling action is worth checking with a clinician first — and in the meantime the machine works perfectly well legs-only with the arms resting on the fixed pegs, which is a genuine option rather than a workaround.

    Related reading


    How we compare

    Compare Fitness Equipment does not physically test equipment. Our comparisons are built from published manufacturer specifications, the standards those specifications are measured against, and the trade-offs that follow from them. We say which figures are set by an agreed standard and which are defined by the manufacturer, because the difference changes how much weight a figure deserves. Specifications, prices and stock change without notice, so check the current figures on the retailer’s own page before you buy. Where we earn a commission from a retailer link we say so on the page it appears.

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